The original classic eclair has outlasted many boutique food
trends. Yet, this unassuming pastry has never shoed it in to first place, playing
second fiddle to the more sexy macaron, friand or tartelette. That is, until now. With eclairs sporting their luminous fondant
coats and bold flavoured fillings they are enjoying the front row window of many
boutique patisseries in Paris.
Fauchon, the Parisian specialty food store located at place
de la Madeleine, parades eclairs as a changing and whimsical background to
display their creations. Don’t be surprised to see the doleful eyes of Mona
Lisa following you from her sweet pastry canvas.
Another couple of notable Paris
patisseries, L’Éclair de Génie and L’Atelier de l’Éclair have both added
savoury eclairs to their repertoire. If you plan to partake, be prepared to wait your turn for the
privilege, as the locals have taken a liking to these and there is a
regular line up of hungry customers on any given day.
The traditional eclair, and incidentally my favourite from
my 1960s school tuckshop, is a simple affair. The case is made with choux
pastry dough, piped from a pastry bag in a log shape, and baked until it is crisp
and hollow inside. It is either filled by piping the filling in or split
lengthwise and filled. The classic filling is a vanilla pastry cream and
usually topped with a chocolate or coffee glaze or icing.
If you want to be adventurous, I have included some creative
fillings for you to begin with. My choices were, cumquat, lime, strawberry and
chocolate. I have also included the basic and traditional pastry cream filling,
to add your fruit flavourings to. And just a warning before you start, if you plan
to get creative, make sure you give yourself time to play.
For best flavour, allow the finished eclairs to be chilled
for an hour or so before serving.
Tips
- Although not traditional, this method of using an electric mixer to incorporate the eggs into the dough saves a lot of effort and produces great results.
- If you are going to get creative and make the fruit pastes and coloured icing, there are a number of steps in the process. Prepare the fruit paste and chocolate ganache first, then secondly the pastry cream, thirdly, the choux pastry and lastly the coloured fondant icing.
- Use a large size pastry bag with a size 13, or a 1.5 centimetre piping nozzle to pipe the pastry.
- The consistency of the classic French pastry cream should be very thick and pudding like.
Recipe
makes about a dozen eclairs.
Fruit pastes
You can use
whatever fruit you like to extract maximum flavour. I used 6 cumquats, halved;
3 limes, 2 juiced and one chopped up; 1 punnet of strawberries, sliced.
4
tablespoons of sugar to each saucepan of fruit
Add water
as needed
Using 3
small saucepans, place fruit and 4 tablespoons of sugar in each.
Add at
least 3 tablespoons of water to the cumquats and the limes. The strawberries
will need less water as they will produce more juice.
Place each
pan on a medium heat with lid on.
Bring to a
boil and reduce heat, lifting the lid to stir to ensure the mixture does not
burn. Add the water as needed to loosen the mixture. Cook the fruit down until
you have a jammy sauce. This will only take three to five minutes.
When
cooked, push each paste through a fine sieve to extract a silky fruit gel. This
should only produce a small quantity of fruit paste, however it should be
enough to flavour the pastry cream. Discard the solids from the sieve.
Cool the
individual pastes in the fridge.
Chocolate ganache
125g dark
chocolate, broken into pieces
25g butter
125g pure
cream
Place the
chocolate and butter into a medium sized heatproof bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan and bring
to a rolling boil. Pour the scalded cream over the chocolate pieces. Stirring
until the chocolate is melted and the cream is incorporated. Cool in the
fridge.
Vanilla Pastry Cream
2 cups
whole milk
6 jumbo egg
yolks
½ cup sugar
1 ½ tsp
vanilla paste
1/3 cup
cornflour
50g
unsalted butter, chopped into small pieces
In a small
saucepan bring the milk to a boil. In another saucepan of medium size, whisk
the yolks with the sugar and cornflour until thick and well blended.
Without
stopping, whisk a third of a cup of the milk into the egg mixture, to loosen
the mixture, then still whisking add the remaining milk in a thin and steady
stream. Put the pan over a medium heat and with a wooden spoon, stir
continuously and vigorously. You will need to make sure you stir into all the
edges of the saucepan to stop the thickening custard mixture from sticking.
While still stirring, bring the mixture to a boil, still stirring for about one
to two minutes. The mixture should be thickened and pudding like. Remove the
pan from the heat.
Stir in the
vanilla paste and let stand for a few minutes, then stir in the butter, a piece
at the time. This will make the pastry cream silky.
Scrape the
pastry cream into a bowl and press a piece of plastic wrap directly on top. This
will stop a skin from forming and create an airtight seal. Then place another
piece of plastic wrap around the top to seal the bowl. Refrigerate to cool.
To flavour
the vanilla pastry cream, when cool, divide the pastry cream into smaller
portioned bowls and add some of the cooled fruit paste or chocolate ganache to each
portion of the pastry cream. Tasting to ensure you have enough to flavour the
pastry cream. A rule of thumb is not to incorporate any more than half the
ratio of fruit paste to vanilla pastry cream, to ensure the pastry cream
remains stable.
Choux pastry
½ cup whole
milk
½ cup water
120g
unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 tbsp
sugar
½ tsp salt
1 cup plain
flour
4 jumbo
eggs, at room temperature
Place oven
racks evenly positioned in the oven. Preheat the oven to 190C and line two
baking trays with baking paper. Stick the paper down with a little cooking
spray to hold it in place.
Bring the
milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to a rolling boil in a medium sized heavy
based saucepan over a high heat. Add the flour all in one go, and lower the
heat to medium. Start to mix the flour in immediately with a wooden spoon. The
dough will come together, and a light crust will form on the bottom of the
saucepan. This stage is meant to dry out the pastry. Continue to stir the
pastry even though it will be stiff, for another two minutes. The dough should
be smooth and pull away from the sides of the saucepan.
Remove the
saucepan from the heat and turn the dough into the bowl of an electric mixer
with a paddle attachment. Alternatively, if you don’t have a mixer, you can
continue the next stage while the pastry remains in the saucepan off the heat. Let
the dough sit for a minute to rest, then add the eggs one at the time, mixing
between each addition. Beat until the dough is thick and shiny. Make sure that
each egg is completely incorporated before you add the next. The dough will
fall apart and come together during this process. The dough should be glossy and
smooth and ready to use immediately.
Fit a large
pastry bag with a size 13 or 1.5 centimetre nozzle. Fill the pastry bag with
the dough and pipe out even strips of dough that are about 13 centimetres (5”)
in length, and about 4 centimetres apart. This will allow them to spread. When piping the dough, cut the ends with a
sharp knife to keep them even and smooth.
Bake the
eclairs for about eight to ten minutes, then rotate the trays for even cooking.
Check them for browning. Continue to bake the eclairs for another five minutes
(or so), then wedge the handle of a wooden spoon in the oven door so it stays
slightly open and bake for another three to five minutes. The total baking time
is about fifteen minutes.
Remove the
eclairs from the tray to an oven rack to cool.
Fondant
1 box of
ready to roll fondant icing, Orchard brand is readily available at most
supermarkets
food
colouring
decoration
This stage
will be the very last before assembly. Place the fondant in a saucepan for
stove top heating, or a microwave proof jug for microwave heating, on low heat,
only enough to melt just below blood temperature.
Once
melted, separate into smaller portions to equal the number of different icing
colours you plan to use. I chose, green, orange and pink. Mix in a few drops of
food colouring to each portion, adding more to increase the colour intensity
required.
The icing
should be a runny consistency without being too liquid causing it to run off
the top. You may need to reheat the fondant slightly to keep it at the required
consistency.
Assembly
You can
either cut the eclairs in half lengthwise with a bread knife, and using a small
pastry bag and small nozzle, pipe on some of the flavoured pastry cream.
Alternatively you can leave the eclairs whole and make a small hole with the
nozzle tip in the base of the eclair and pipe the cream directly into the eclair
until it is full. The latter is my
preference.
You will
need to use a different pastry bag for each flavoured pastry cream.
Once you
have filled the eclairs with your choice of fillings, you will need to top with
the matching icing fondant.
Hold the eclair
at a ninety-degree angle up over the icing and spoon the icing from the top to
allow it to run down the éclair to the other end, letting the excess drop back
into the bowl. The icing should settle around the top nicely without dripping
off. Continue with the remaining eclairs, finishing one colour up at the time.
For the
chocolate ganache eclairs, fill these with a half vanilla pastry cream, half ganache
mixture. Top with the softened ganache using the same method as the fondant.
Finish off
each éclair with your choice of decoration.
If you were
to only make the traditional eclair, fill with the basic vanilla
pastry cream, no added flavourings, and finish with the chocolate ganache for
the topping.