Showing posts with label lamb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lamb. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Smoking with Broadbeans

Smoked Lamb with smashed broadbean and spiced pumpkin salad


Photos by Steve Shanahan

Apologies in advance are probably in order here, as I inflict the well worn cafĂ© and restaurant mantra of fresh, local, seasonal produce, on you again to describe these dishes. This concept is not new or unique and producers from the world over have been working with seasonally available produce for ages, actually, forever.

In these recipes I also incorporate one of the most basics of preservation techniques, smoking, used to preserve the spring produce through leaner times. In this instance, this is not used to preserve, but to add flavour.  In making the most of the sweet spring produce available at this time of year and the smoking for flavour, makes for a light, spring lunch, evocative of the Mediterranean.

As in the Mediterranean, I was fortunate to produce my own backyard crop for the choicest and sweetest peas, broadbeans, mint and citrus that were ready to harvest, bang on time for a family birthday feast. 

While preparing the vegetables, I am captivated by the soft, fluffy green papoose of the broadbean pod that protects its offspring, keeping it in perfect condition. And the verdant greens of the mint, coriander and peas have not yet been yellowed off by the sun. This time of year really is the height of food perfection. 

For a low fuss feast, throw together these ingredients with some smoked new season lamb, and few embellishments are needed for a gorgeous Mediterranean inspired spring lunch.

To smoke the lamb and lemons I used a simple smoking technique using a kettle barbeque with hot coals and hickory chips available at most hardware shops. 

Smoked lamb with smashed broad bean and spiced pumpkin salad
Serves 4
800g butternut pumpkin, deseeded, peeled and diced
¼ tspn ground allspice
salt and ground pepper
3 tbsp pumpkin seeds
500g broadbeans, unpodded. If fresh broadbeans are not available use frozen.
12 lamb cutlets
100g marinated feta, crumbled
½ cup coriander leaves, finely chopped
2 tbsp lemon juice
Hickory wood chips
Olive oil spray

Paste
1 tbsp olive oil
1tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
½ tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp lemon juice
¼ cup chopped flat leaf parsley
¼ cup chopped coriander

Preheat the oven to 180C. Line an oven tray with baking paper and place chopped pumpkin on the tray drizzled with olive oil, and sprinkled with allspice, salt and pepper to taste.

Bake for thirty minutes and then scatter the pumpkin seeds over the top and bake for another five minutes or so until the seeds are roasted. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

To make the paste, heat the oil in a small saucepan over a medium to low heat. Add the cumin, ground coriander, paprika, turmeric and garlic. Cook, stirring for one minute. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice, fresh, chopped coriander and parsley. Stir to combine. Smear half of the paste onto the cutlets to marinate and set the remainder aside.

Prepare the broad beans by cooking in a medium saucepan of boiling water for three minutes. Drain and refresh in cold water and drain and cool. When cooled, peel off outer shell and reserve the inner beans. Gently smash with a potato masher, still leaving a coarse texture.

Any smoker can be used to smoke the lamb cutlets. I use a simple kettle barbeque using hot coals cooked down for a few hours with the kettle lid placed on it. Spray the cutlets with a light spray of olive oil. Place the cutlets on a greased wire rack that sits over a disposable foil tray with a handful of hickory chips spread over the base. The foil tray should sit on the kettle rack in the barbeque with the hot coals underneath it. Place the lid on the preheated kettle barbeque and leave the vent slightly open. The cutlets should take about thirty minutes to cook. They will turn a dark red on the outside and just pink on the inside. For well done lamb return to the heat for about another ten minutes or cooked inside when checked for doneness.

To assemble the dish, combine the pumpkin, broad beans, fetta and coriander in a bowl with a dash of olive oil and the lemon juice. Divide among serving plates and top with the lamb cutlets and dolloped with the remaining paste.


Smoked Lemon, pea and broadbean on flatbread

Serves 4
4 Lebanese flatbreads

olive oil spray
2 tsp dried mixed herbs
2 garlic cloves, peeled
4 tbsp olive oil
800g broadbeans in shell, alternatively use frozen broadbeans
250g fresh peas in shell, alternatively use frozen peas
1/3 bunch fresh mint
2 lemons, halved
100g pecorino cheese, grated
salt and ground pepper

Smoked lemons
Preheat smoker or barbeque and place lemon halves over a grill with a smoking wood below. I generally use hickory chips. Smoke for fifteen minutes or until the lemons appear golden and caramelised. They should be softened. If you are cooking this complete meal with the smoked lamb, you can smoke the lemons at the same time as the lamb.

Broad bean and pea topping
Shell the broad beans from the outer pod and cook the beans in a pot of boiling water for two minutes. Remove the beans with a slotted spoon and reserve the water for the peas and set broad beans aside. Shell the peas and cook for two minutes in the broad bean water. Drain the peas and set aside. Shell the cooked broad beans.

In a food processor, pulse the broad beans, peas, mint half the pecorino cheese, garlic, olive oil and juice from one smoked lemon in a food processor for only a few seconds to achieve a slightly chunky mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Flatbread
Preheat oven to 200C and spray the flatbreads lightly with olive oil on both sides. Sprinkle with a little salt and the herbs. Cook in the oven on a rack over an oven tray for about ten minutes or until golden and crisp but not burnt.

To assemble, break the flatbreads into shards and pile on the broad bean and pea topping, serving with extra grated pecorino, a further drizzle of olive oil and the remaining smoked lemon cut into halves again.

Saturday, May 4, 2013

Lamb shanks, pear and pomegranate


Lamb Shanks, Pear and Pomegranate. Photo by Steve Shanahan

Making the connection between food production and the changing seasons is traditional in many parts of the world. Produce not only tastes better at its peak when grown in season, it is cheaper to buy, and matches well with other foods that are grown at the same time and from the same region.

In France many farmers feed their animals from food grown within close proximity of their farms to retain the terroir. This element of localised food production is treated very seriously and is definitely not to be conjured with.

I cannot claim regional terroir in this recipe, although the autumn combination of fruit, lamb, rosewater and pomegranate delivers a balanced and seasonally matched Middle Eastern influence.

To allow the lamb to infuse with flavour and make the most of these delicate and subtle ingredients, prepare this dish one or two days in advance of serving.

If serving this dish as an evening meal, cauliflower puree is an elegant addition to the lamb shanks. If serving this dish as part of a relaxed feast, jewelled couscous also works well.

This quantity should serve 6. 

6 lamb shanks
3 tbsp olive oil
1 cup roughly chopped onion
1 cup chopped carrots
5 garlic cloves
2 tsp ground cardamom
2 cinnamon sticks
5 pears, halved
2 tsp rose water
½ cup toasted pine nuts
¼ cup pomegranate seeds
5 cups of pomegranate juice
¼ cup chopped mint
¼ cup chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 160C.
Heat three tablespoons of olive oil in a large oven-proof frying pan or dutch oven. Brown three lamb shanks at the time on all sides and repeat with the next three shanks. Set aside.

Add the onion, carrots and garlic to the pan and fry until lightly browned. Add the ground cardamom and the cinnamon sticks and season with salt. Cook, stirring for about one minute.

Stir in the pomegranate juice and three extra cups of water, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.

Add the reserved lamb shanks to the pan, arranging the meatier part of the shanks to be submerged in the cooking liquid. Cover pan with a lid or with a couple of layers of foil.

Transfer the pan to the oven. Cook, basting and turning shanks each hour, until the meat is tender and almost falling from the bone. This will take approximately three hours.

When done, remove from the oven, uncover pan and add the pears, pushing them down to submerge in the cooking liquid. Let cool to room temperature, and cover and chill overnight.

Preheat the oven to 200C and remove pan from the fridge, scraping off the fat that has set on the top and discard.

Heat the lamb mixture over a medium heat to soften the liquid until warmed through. Gently remove the shanks from the liquid and transfer them to a large rimmed baking tray. Spoon half a cup of cooking liquid over the top of the shanks. Place the tray into the preheated oven and roast the shanks, basting with the juices until glazed, for about ten minutes.

Gently remove the pears from the cooking liquid and set aside. Strain the remaining liquid through a sieve, reserving the liquid and discarding the vegetables. 
 
Return the strained liquid to the frying pan and add the rose water. Cook until the sauce reduces and thickens, about ten minutes.

Add the pears to the frying pan to reheat through.

Serve the lamb shanks with the pears, a drizzle of sauce, topped with the herbs, pomegranate seeds and pine nuts.


Thursday, March 28, 2013

Paschal Lamb Cake

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Paschal Lamb       Photo by Steve Shanahan

First published Canberra Times 27 March 2013.
Cool and dark mornings announce the onset of Autumn and the approach of Easter. My dog and I have a close personal relationship with these crispish mornings, as we determinedly shed our Christmas kilos, jogging the tracks of the Majura nature park.

With this cooler weather, I inevitably begin to plan our Easter family feast. Its an odd, uncoordinated combination of Easter and school holidays this year, but we will still manage to corral friends and family to feast on a beast, slow roasted in the outdoor oven. 

With a nod to body health and fitness, I avoid the obligatory Easter chocolate overdose, and choose a cake that is not only sans cocoa bean, but has traditional French significance. It is in the shape of a lamb, which represents rebirth and beginnings. Most of all I choose it because its so very cute.

During our last visit to France, I bought some Paschal lamb pottery moulds, from the little town of Soufflenheim in Alsace, which, incredibly, has been an  identified pottery region since the Bronze Age. 

Paschal Lamb Pottery Mould - Photo by Steve Shanahan
The mould consists of two lamb shaped sides joined together with a wire clamp. The cake mixture is poured into the greased mould and baked for forty minutes. When cooked it is removed from the mould and coated with a thick layer of icing sugar while still hot, ready to sit centre stage on the Easter table.

This unusual little cake is suitable for people on a dairy free diet as it contains no milk or butter. The texture of the cake is similar to that of Italian sponge finger biscuits and goes particularly well with a sticky dessert wine.

Any moulded or round cake pan can be used. Double the recipe to make a two-layer cake using two round twenty centimetre cake tins. Ensure you grease and line the cake tins well with baking paper to prevent the cake from sticking.  If making the cake this way, serve it layered with jam and whipped cream, similar to a sponge and dust liberally with icing sugar. The undecorated cake layers will keep for a week in an airtight container.

3 eggs
90g sugar
100g sifted plain flour
½ tsp baking powder
1 tbsp lemon juice
zest of 1 lemon
1 tbsp Kirsch

Preheat the oven to 180C. If using a shaped cake tin or ceramic mould, grease and flour the tin well. For two rounded cake tins, grease the sides well and line the bases with baking paper.

Whisk the eggs and sugar in an electric mixer for ten minutes, until the mixture is very pale.

Sift the flour and baking powder together in a small bowl.

In the bowl of the electric mixer, add the lemon juice, zest and Kirsch to the egg and sugar mixture. Then fold in the sifted flour and baking powder, very gently.

If using a shaped or moulded cake tin, place half the mixture into the tin, tapping gently on the kitchen bench, to drive the batter into the details of the mould. Then fill with the rest of the batter.

If using two round twenty centimetre cake tins, fill each tin equally and tap on the kitchen bench to ensure an even spread of batter.

Bake for 20 minutes for the cake tins and 30 minutes for a moulded tin. Remove the cake gently from the tin while still hot and cool on a wire rack.

Dust liberally with icing sugar.