Nicoise Summer Tart with Monkey Bread

Nicoise Summer Tart.

Photos by Steve Shanahan

First published Canberra Times,  26 November 2014.

The thing that’s so lovely about these warm, summery evenings in Canberra is the gorgeous luminous light that highlights the bright, new soft leaves of the trees. I believe we appreciate our seasons, as they are so incredibly extreme.

This association with light, summery evenings, easily translates to serving lighter, fresher foods incorporating the new seasons delicate vegetables, so easily accessible here. Tarts are perfect for entertaining and ideal fare for Christmas celebrations as they can be served warm on plates or passed around as finger food.

This particular tart is reminiscent of the French bistro classic, Nicoise Salad, however instead of serving it with tuna, I opted for the richer, more decadent flavours of salmon.  The tart holds up well for left-overs and can be made a day in advance. The beauty of a tart is that you can prepare and par-cook the tart shell in advance and the filling combinations are endless.

This tart was served alongside the wicked and indulgent Rosemary Monkey Bread, swimming in butter and honey.

Serves 8

2 cups flour

130 g unsalted butter, cold and cubed

3 medium sized eggs

½ head of butter lettuce leaves, torn into 5cm pieces

10 green beans, cut into 5 centimetre lengths

1 medium potato, peeled and sliced

1 95g good quality tinned salmon

½ cup cream

½ cup milk

1 tbsp Dijon mustard

3 tbsp olive oil

1 anchovy fillet

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 small red shallot onion, peeled

2 medium Roma tomatoes, thinly sliced

½ cup pitted black olives

Place the flour, butter and salt into a bowl. Using your fingers, rub the flour and butter together until it resembles course breadcrumbs. Add six tablespoons of ice-cold water and mix with a knife until a dough forms. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead it until smooth. This should take about two minutes. Form the dough into a disk and wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for an hour.

Boil the potato in salted water until tender, then add the green beans and cook for a minute more. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a bowl of ice-cold water, then drain and place in a medium sized bowl. Add the lettuce and salmon to the vegetables and set aside.

Blend together the milk, cream, oil, mustard, eggs, anchovy, garlic, shallot and salt and pepper until smooth and add to the vegetables and salmon. Stir to combine and place in the fridge until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 170C.

Roll the dough into a thirty-two centimetre circle and transfer to a greased twenty-six centimetre spring form tart tin with a removable base, pressing the dough gently into the base and sides of the tin. Place the tin on a baking tray.

Prick the dough with a fork and cover with parchment paper and fill with dried beans. Bake until slightly firm, about fifteen minutes. Remove the paper and beans and spread the filling into the crust. Arrange the tomatoes and olives on the top and bake at a reduced oven temperature of 150C for approximately thirty minutes, this may vary and take longer depending on your oven. Check for doneness in the centre of the tart, it shoudl not be runny. Let the tart cool slightly before removing from the pan to serve.

Rosemary monkey bread

Rosemary Monkey Bread

180g unsalted butter

4 cups flour

1 cup of grated Gruyere cheese

1 cup of milk

¼ cup sugar

1 tbsp rosemary, finely chopped

2 tsp salt

¾ cup honey

2 packets or 14g of dried yeast

Grease a twenty-five centimetre bundt tin with butter and then dust well with flour. Whisk the flour, cheese, rosemary, salt and pepper in a medium bowl and set aside. 

Heat two tablespoons of the butter with the milk and one-third of a cup of water over medium heat until warmed. Do not overheat the milk as you will damage the yeast. Transfer the milk mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Stir in the sugar and yeast and allow to sit for about ten minutes until the mixture is foamy. With the motor running slowly add the dry ingredients to the yeast,  beating until the dough is smooth. Transfer to a lightly greased bowl, cover with cling wrap and leave in a warm place for about an hour.

Preheat the oven to 180C.

Melt the remaining butter in a small saucepan and whisk in the honey and set aside.

On a lightly floured benchtop, pat the dough out into a twenty centimetre square about two and half centimetres thick. Cut the dough into two and half centimetre pieces and squash together into the prepared bundt pan, layering as you go. Pour the melted butter and honey mixture over the dough. Bake until golden and a skewer, when inserted into the middle of the bread, comes out clean. This should take about thirty minutes. Let the bread cool slightly before upending onto a plate and serve with the Nicoise summer tart.

Semifreddo

Berry Maple Semifreddo

Photos property of Steve Shanahan

First published Canberra Times 16 January 2013.

In the midst of what feels like a never ending summer, my thoughts turn to cool and easy desserts. The brief at this time is no fuss; something I can prepare in advance but will still look and taste fresh on the day.

These are just the ticket, no fussing with an ice cream maker, all you will need is an electric mixer with two bowls or a spare hand mixer for whipping cream.

You can freeze the left over egg whites in an airtight container. To track your frozen egg whites, place a small piece of masking tape on the lid and write the date on it. When preparing to use the egg whites, thaw completely to use in meringue or coconut roughs below. 

Berry maple semifreddo

500g raspberries, frozen thawed, or fresh

250g caster sugar

8 egg yolks

600ml pure cream

100g maple syrup

Combine the raspberries and 50g of the sugar in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook gently for four minutes until the berries just begin to soften and the sugar is dissolved. Set aside to cool and then refrigerate till cool.

Whisk the egg yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer on high speed for five minutes until creamy, light and fluffy.

Heat the remaining sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat for five minutes until it is just beginning to darken and the sugar has dissolved. Mix with a silicone spatula, gently scraping the bottom and edges and mix any lumps back into the centre. Any lumps will eventually melt. Work fast to stop the sugar from burning. While the yolks are still whisking, pour the sugar liquid into the egg yolks in a thin, steady stream with the mixer on moderate speed, so as not to cook the yolks. Whisk until completely cool.

Whip the cream in a separate bowl to form stiff peaks. Fold in the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the chilled raspberry mixture. Pour into a two litre loaf tin lined with plastic wrap so the ends and sides of the plastic wrap hang outside to provide a handle for later removal. Stir in the maple syrup gently to create a marbled effect. Cover with the overhang of plastic wrap and freeze for five hours until firm. Remove by grabbing the plastic wrap, lifting from the tin and turn out onto a serving plate.

 

Salted caramel semifreddo

Praline

150g caster sugar

¾ tsp sea salt

Caramel

100g caster sugar

50ml water

50g salted butter chopped

1 tsp sea salt

150ml pure cream, slightly warmed

6 egg yolks

50g caster sugar

1 tsp vanilla paste

350ml pure cream

For the praline, pour the sugar in an even layer in a heavy based saucepan. Line a baking tray with baking paper that has been lightly greased with vegetable oil.

Heat the sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat for five minutes until it is just beginning to darken and the sugar has dissolved. Mix with a silicone spatula, gently scraping the bottom and edges and mix any lumps back into the centre. Any lumps will eventually melt. Work fast to stop the praline from burning and immediately mix in the salt. Quickly pour the mixture onto a baking tray, swirling and tilting the praline so it spreads thinly over the tray. Set aside to cool and set.

For the semifreddo mixture, crush the set praline into small chunks and place into a plastic bag. Bash it with a rolling pin to crush. Set aside.

Combine the 100g sugar and 50ml water in a heavy saucepan over a medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Brush the sugar from the sides with a wet pastry brush then cook without stirring until a deep amber colour. This will take about eight to ten minutes. Add the butter and salt and stir to combine. Add the cream and stir until mixed. If sugar crystals form when you add the cream, return the pan to a low heat for one or two minutes, then remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the 50g of sugar and vanilla paste in the bowl of an electric mixer on high speed for five minutes until creamy, light and fluffy. While the yolks are still whisking, pour the hot caramel mixture into the egg yolks in a thin, steady stream with the mixer on moderate speed, so as not to cook the yolks. Whisk until the egg yolk mixture cools and refrigerate until completely cold.

When the yolk mixture has completely cooled, whip the cream until soft peaks form and gently fold the cream and the crushed praline into the cooled yolk mixture. Pour into a two litre loaf tin lined with plastic wrap so the ends and sides of the wrap hang outside to provide a handle for later removal.

Cover with the overhang of plastic wrap and freeze for five hours until firm. Remove by grabbing the plastic wrap, lifting from the tin and turn out onto a serving plate.

 

 

Coconut pineapple and basil semifreddo

6 egg yolks

1 cup caster sugar

½ cup fresh pineapple, finely chopped and extra to serve

½ cup pineapple juice

1 cup coconut cream

1 cup of pure cream

2 tbsp dessicated coconut

2 tbsp fresh Thai basil leaves, finely chopped

Heat the sugar and pineapple juice in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.

Whisk the egg yolk s in the bowl of an electric mixer on high speed for five minutes until creamy, light and fluffy. While the yolks are still whisking, pour the hot sugar and pineapple liquid into the egg yolks in a thin, steady stream with the mixer on moderate speed, so as not to cook the yolks. Whisk until completely cool. The mixture will gradually thicken and go pale and creamy.

Whip the coconut cream and the pure cream together till soft peaks form and gently fold through the egg yolk mixture along with the coconut, pineapple and basil.

Pour into a two litre loaf tin lined with plastic wrap so the ends and sides of the wrap hang outside to provide a handle for later removal.

Cover with the overhang of plastic wrap and freeze for five hours until firm. Remove by grabbing the plastic wrap, lifting from the tin and turn out onto a serving plate.

Serve with fresh pineapple pieces.

Coconut roughs

125g unsalted butter

2 egg whites

1 tspn vanilla paste

120 plain flour

120g caster sugar

80g shredded coconut

Preheat the oven to 200C

Mix the butter, egg whites and vanilla in a bowl, then fold in the flour and sugar. Beat until smooth.

Spread teaspoonfuls on baking paper lined oven trays. Spread each spoonful to about one millimetre thickness in random elongated shapes.

Bake for five minutes until golden and keep an eye out for burning. Leave to cool and harden. Serve with semifreddo or ice cream.

Cool Christmas

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Photo by Steve Shanahan

First published Canberra Times 12 December 2012 and in Goodfood.com.au
 

Christmas for us this year will be light and cool with minimum fuss. Family and friends will call by and we will hang out by the pool, going inside to do only the simplest of food preparation. Apart from the food that I will have pre-prepared, the majority will be ready to serve chilled straight from the fridge.

My favourite special occasion pre dinner nibbly is buttery chicken liver pate that can be made a couple of weeks in advance. It can be kept in the fridge till needed, as the clarified butter poured on the top provides an airtight seal. The Marsala flavour doesn’t overpower, but provides just enough cheer to make it taste like Christmas. The quantity below makes two large sized dishes, or as I like to do, buy some little glass pots with lids and fill with the pate to give to friends as gifts. They make great pressies with a pack of gourmet crackers. Another delicious way of serving this pate is to stuff half a teaspoon into cognac-poached prunes.

Our Christmas day meal this year will be a chilled pea soup starter with a scoop of mint gelato, and mains will be ocean trout tartare with tomato tea. These two dishes are refreshing and elegant and taste sensational. The soup, gelato and tomato tea can be made a couple of days before and the ocean trout prepared  half an hour before you are ready to eat.

Chicken liver pate with pistachios

225g unsalted butter, softened, plus an extra 4 tablespoons melted

3 large French shallots, thinly sliced

Photo by Steve Shanahan

1kg chicken livers, trimmed

salt and freshly ground pepper

¾ cup dry marsala

½ cup chicken stock

1 ¼ cups salted roasted pistachios, ½ cup chopped

¼ cup parsley

1 tsp chopped thyme

Quantity makes about 5 cups.

In a large pan, melt four tablespoons of the softened butter. Add the shallots and cook over a moderate heat, stirring occasionally until softened, about eight minutes. Add the trimmed chicken livers, season with a little salt and pepper and cook over a moderate heat, turning a few times, until firm, about four minutes. Add the Marsala and simmer for two minutes. Add the chicken stock and simmer, turning the livers another few times, until they are light pink in the middle, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for about another five minutes.

Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processer and puree. Cut the remaining butter into cubes and add it to the liver mixture bit by bit, blending while the machine is still running until completely incorporated.

Scrape the puree into a large bowl and fold in the whole pistachios, parsley and thyme. Generously season the pate with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the pate into dishes or glass jars with lids and refrigerate until firm, for about two hours.

Pour the melted butter over the pate to seal it, then garnish with the chopped pistachios. Cover the dishes with lids or plastic wrap until the butter is firm. The pate will keep in the fridge for a few weeks.

 Chilled pea soup with mint gelato

Photo by Steve Shanahan

Soup

2 cups fresh or frozen peas, plus extra for garnish

1 potato, peeled, chopped

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 cup shredded iceberg lettuce

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

¼ cup thickened cream

Mint gelato

2 tsp grated lemon zest

1 tbsp lemon juice

¼ cup caster sugar

1 cup chopped mint leaves, plus whole leaves for garnish

½ cup mascarpone cheese

1 eggwhite

Serves 6

For the gelato, place the lemon zest and juice, sugar and all but two tablespoons of chopped mint in a pan with 180ml of water. Stir over low heat to dissolve the sugar. Increase the heat to medium and simmer for two minutes, then strain through a sieve, pressing down on the solids to extract the flavour. Cool, then stir the syrup into the mascarpone.

Transfer the gelato mixture to a shallow plastic container, then place in the freezer for a few hours, or until frozen.

Whiz the gelato mixture, eggwhite and reserved two tablespoons of mint in a food processor until combined. Return to the freezer for at least another four hours or overnight.

Place peas, potato, onion, lettuce and stock in a pan and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from the heat and using a food processor blend until smooth. Strain through a sieve, then stir in the cream. Season, then chill for a few hours.

When ready to serve, divide the soup among six small bowls and top with a scoop of gelato, a few mint leaves and whole peas.

Ocean trout tartare with tomato tea

500g sashimi grade ocean trout fillets, skin removed

1 small red onion, very finely chopped

Photo by Steve Shanahan

60ml vodka

small herb leaves to garnish

Tomato tea

1kg vine ripened tomatoes

¼ red onion, chopped

¼ cup basil leaves

1 garlic clove

1 tbs Worcestershire sauce

2 drops Tabasco

1 tsp sugar

For the tomato tea, remove the stalks and set aside. Blend tomatoes with remaining ingredients until smooth. Line a sieve with muslin or a clean chux, then set over a bowl. Pour the tomato mixture into the sieve and drain for a couple of hours until you have about a cup or more of liquid.  Don’t be tempted to stir the liquid or your tea will be cloudy, it must drain through without pressure. Discard solids. Add reserved stalks to the liquid, this is for flavour, then chill.

For the ocean trout, line a tray with plastic wrap. Arrange six ring moulds or ramekins on the tray.

Half an hour before you are ready to eat, finely chop the trout, then combine in a bowl with the onion and vodka. Press the mixture firmly into the ring moulds, then chill for up to thirty minutes. If you leave it any longer the vodka will start to cook the trout.

To serve, transfer the ring moulds to serving plates using an egg lifter. Remove the moulds, then garnish with herbs. If using ramekins, turn upside down and they will come away neatly.  Serve with the tomato tea drizzled around the base of the trout.