Photo by Steve Shanahan |
First published Canberra Times 7 November 2012
Oblivious to the world
around me, I’ve been completely absorbed in researching the do’s and don’ts of
feeding my insatiable rye sourdough bread starter. It’s taken me many years to
finally take up the challenge of bread baking using a wild sourdough starter,
and I’m hooked, spelt, rye and wholemeal!
Growing a rye mother, as she’s
known, is no easy feat in colder climates. After mother sat in her jar
completely inert for days, I decide that she might appreciate some constant warmth.
The spare bed with its electric blanket is just the place, with a perfect temperature
of 25C on the low setting. With warnings to the rest of the family of mother’s
occupation of the bed, she snuggles between the sheets and soon starts to
bubble away. Lift off has commenced, which is great but so too has the cost of
electricity, and it probably outweighs the price of buying a loaf of bread. But
what price do we put on our passions, not to mention a happy mother.
Food neglect sets in and the
family are pleading for anything other than bread, and so I am forced to dust
the flour off my hands. No doubt you’ve heard of confit duck, pork and even
salmon, the concept of confit tuna is no different. It is cooked very slowly to
preserve the delicate flavour of the fish. While it’s
difficult to drag my allegiance from duck, and more recently bread, if anything
can, the prospect of the velvety succulence of confit tuna just might.
The method is a little time
consuming, but simple. So in true confit fashion, prepare at least a few hours
in advance for this technique.
The tuna is marinated in preheated
olive oil, infused with the aromatics for about two or three hours, then cooked
very slowly for a short time in its oil bath. It doesn’t, thank goodness, bear
any resemblance to the canned variety. I choose a fresh coriander and basil
pesto with a tangy cherry tomato salsa to match the flavours of the tuna, giving
it a fresh Spanish influence. If serving as an elegant dinner party entree, you
could add cauliflower puree as a base. The muskiness of creamed cauliflower is
a great match to the tuna.
As with most confit, there
is little oil left in the tuna. Although the deliciously herbaceous oil from
the tuna bath will give you some very flavoursome dressing to add to salads and
for flavouring pizzas, ideal for mild weather lunches. Keep the flavoured oil
in a sealed jar in the refrigerator during summer.
The oil and tuna are brought
slowly to a temperature of 60°C, once at temperature it is left for only a few minutes
to cook. The tuna is then removed. A thermometer is very useful for this recipe,
as the temperature should not rise above 60°C. If the oil temperature rises much
above this level, the proteins may ooze from the tuna, covering it with a white
film and the tuna will be dry and lose its delicate flavour. You are looking
for pink, satiny and elegant tuna meat.
Tuna
500g good quality tuna,
about 1 inch thick steaks
3 cups good-quality olive
oil, more if needed to cover the tuna during cooking
1 small white onion, sliced
2 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves, chopped
6 sprigs fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tsp black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
½ a preserved lemon, discard flesh, thinly sliced
1 small white onion, sliced
2 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves, chopped
6 sprigs fresh thyme leaves, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tsp black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
½ a preserved lemon, discard flesh, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, skinned and
sliced
2 tbsp of sea salt
zest of 1 lemon
Tomato Salsa
½ cup cherry tomatoes sliced
into quarters
½ red capsicum, sliced
thinly
1 tsp lemon zest
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
pinch of cayenne pepper
pinch sea salt
Pesto
½ cup of fresh basil leaves
½ cup of fresh coriander
leaves
2 anchovies
zest of ¼ lemon
¼ cup of olive oil
¼ cup of salted peanuts
2 large cloves of garlic
¼ cup grated parmesan cheese
Combine the herbs,
seasonings, preserved lemon, onion and salt in a deep saucepan. Heat to 60C and
cook for 20 minutes to infuse the flavours of the aromatics into the oil. This
will also pasteurise the oil to increase its shelf life. Leave to cool for
about thirty minutes, the oil should be warm and slightly salty to taste.
Cut the tuna so it will fit snugly
in one layer into a pan or heat proof casserole dish. This will limit the
amount of oil you will need. Pour the warmed oil and the aromatics over the
tuna, making sure the oil covers the fish.
If the oil doesn’t cover the
tuna, add extra.
Make the tomato salsa and pesto
now.