Photo by Steve Shanahan |
First published Canberra Times 22 February 2012.
With
the low carb fad that’s been around for the past few years, pasta has
definitely been placed on the ‘B’ list in our house, along with bread and
potatoes.
For
some time now we have been dutifully eating our protein and vegetables without
carbs. That is until recently, when I unpacked a long lost box of kitchen items
that had been stored away and rediscovered my pasta machine.
Chef
Giorgio Locatelli reckons that every authentic Italian is made up of two-thirds
pasta and that pasta is the fuel that keeps Italy running smoothly. He also
wonders that at ten to midday in Italy, how many millions of kilos of pasta are
being placed in pots of boiling water ready to be transformed into lunch before
siesta? Sophia Loren famously claims she owes her voluptuous figure to
spaghetti, and Garibaldi vowed that it was pasta that united Italy.
With
this level of devotion, and despite a lingering fondness for spaghettio’s out
of a tin on white toast, Australians have become pretty sophisticated in the
subject of pasta and embraced the bow ties and spirals with gusto.
Although
we are likely to reach for whatever tin of tomatoes or dried pasta is available
to us in our cupboards, Locatelli says that the different shapes and textures
of pasta are meant to match their sauce. He instructs that you would not use
penne to go with a tomato based sauce, you would use spaghetti. Similarly, you
would not use spaghetti to make a cream based dish. There also seems to be a
number of unspoken rules around dried and fresh pasta. Locatelli further
instructs, you would only use fresh pasta to go with a ragu style sauce. He
believes that Italian mothers and grandmothers just ‘know’ these things and it
is purely instinctive.
So many
rules! I’m feeling pretty confused by now, and resign myself to accommodating
the harvest from my vegetable patch. It seems that I’m one of the lucky ones to
have ripe tomatoes, which was more good luck than skill. So I bend the rules a
little, deviating from tradition, with a sauce made from fresh, sweet cherry
tomatoes mixed through a home made fettucine style pasta. I topped it with a
pangritata, which is a garlic, herb and breadcrumb mix fried in olive oil.
Over
the ten years I’ve owned my pasta machine and as many times that I’ve actually
used it to make fresh pasta, I am reminded that it really is so easy to make.
Although for me, it’s the sense of satisfaction to see it bubbling away in the
pot that really does it. Then of course there is the fantastic eggy flavour and
the silken texture, comparatively difficult to achieve with the dried variety.
When I
made my pasta, it was early in the day. I then hung it over the rungs of a
clothes airer, secured behind closed doors in the laundry, so the resident food
focused spoodle would not be tempted. You can store the dried pasta for months
in the cupboard in airtight containers or bags if you dry it properly. Alternatively,
if you are using your pasta straight after making it, you can wind handfuls of
it into little nests and store them under a damp tea towel to stay moist before
you are ready to cook it.
Pasta
making, like breadmaking, is the kind of thing I wouldn’t choose to do if I was
in a hurry or not in the right frame of mind. If I was either of those, I would
succumb to the instant variety and reach for a packet in the cupboard.
In
saying that, I highly recommend giving pasta making a go, it’s incredibly easy
and therapeutic, not to mention the sense of achievement and excitement you
will feel when you tell people you made it yourself.
Serves
4
Home made fettucine
500g 00
flour or strong flour
3 large
eggs
8 egg
yolks
Place
flour in a large bowl and make a well in the centre, add the eggs and yolks.
Mix with a fork, breaking up the eggs as you mix the flour in from the middle.
Mix until the dough forms a ball and you can work it with your hands. Tip out
onto a clean, floured surface and knead well until the dough ball comes
together and is silky and elastic. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and rest in
the fridge for half an hour or so.
I use a
pasta machine, but if you don’t have one you can roll the dough by hand, however
it is a tough job and takes a lot of rolling to get it as thin as a machine
can. A machine really is great if you can lay your hands on one. They are not
very expensive and worth it if you love your pasta.
Divide
your ball of pasta into 4 pieces and keep covered. Working with one ball at a
time, dust the pasta ball with flour and flatten out by hand. Run it through
the widest setting on your pasta machine. Do this 5 or 6 times, incrementally
reducing the thickness until it is on the thinnest setting. You will get the
hang of it once you do it a few times.
Once I
have a long thin sheet I then run it through the fettucine setting to make the
long flat noodles. Use one hand to lift the noodles as they come out of the
machine and one to turn the handle.
I hang
the noodles on a clothes airer to dry for a few hours. You can hang them over
the back of a chair, just remember to cover the chair seat with a tea towel as
the noodles will be coated in flour.
If you
are using them straight away, just twirl each portion into a nest and store
them between two damp teatowels while you are boiling your water ready for
cooking them. They will stay fresh like that for a few hours if you store them
in the fridge in the teatowel.
Repeat
with the remaining portions of pasta dough.
Tip:
keep the balls of dough coated in flour along with the fettucine noodles once
they are cut. This will stop them from sticking together.
Pangritata
5 tbsp
olive oil
200g of
roughly torn bread into small pieces
1 clove
of garlic, chopped
handful
of fresh thyme or oregano leaves
salt
and ground pepper
Fettucine
1
quantity of home-made fettucine, or use about 400g of dried pasta
6 tbsp
olive oil
2
cloves of garlic, chopped
15
anchovies
juice
of 2 lemons
2 small
chillies,
chopped
grated
fresh parmesan
First
cook the pangritata. Place the olive oil into a hot large hot frying pan. Add
the garlic, thyme and bread. Fry until they begin to go golden. Stir around for
a couple of minutes until they are crisp. Season with salt and pepper and drain
on kitchen paper.
Cook
the fettucine in salted boiling water until al dente and drain. While it’s
cooking, place the oil and garlic in a frying pan (use the same one you used
earlier) and heat gently. As the garlic begins to soften, add the anchovies and
mix gently. They will melt into the mixture. Add the lemon juice and the
chillies. Toss in the drained fettucine and coat it in the sauce. Taste for
seasoning, you find you will need a little more lemon juice. Serve immediately
sprinkled with the pangritata and a little parmesan.