Photo by Steve Shanahan |
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Pomegranates
Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Christmas leftovers
First published Canberra Times December 21 2011
What to do with the mountain of food left overs from
Christmas Day is always tricky, especially when the ravenous appetites have
been sated by the excesses of the last few days. No one wants to hear the words ‘turkey’ or
‘ham’ ever again.
I usually freeze what I can or gradually use them in dishes
that are cleverly disguised as something else. You might be surprised when a
few tasty sauces or dressings are added how appetites can return.
Both of these dishes are a complete meal in themselves,
alleviating the time spent in the kitchen. The risotto is served warm, although
it can be prepared in advance and reheated in the microwave oven. Risotto
ingredients are generally on hand found in the pantry.
Turkey, Apple and
Potato Salad
4 shallots
2 tbsp vegetable oil
750g baby or chat potatoes
1 red apple
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 zucchini, thickly sliced
400g cooked turkey meat
2 tbsp chopped parsley
cracked black pepper
½ cup roasted pine nuts or walnuts
Dressing
½ cup whole egg mayonnaise
3 tspn Dijon mustard
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
2 tbsp lemon juice
Slice the green part of the shallots into long thin strips.
Chop the white parts of the shallots and set aside. Heat the oil in a shallow
frying pan and fry the sliced green part of the shallots until they are crisp.
Remove and drain on paper towel.
Boil the potatoes for 10 minutes, or until just tender when
pierced with a pointy knife. Drain and allow to cool, then cut in halves or
quarters.
Cut the unpeeled apple into thin wedges and immediately toss
with lemon juice to prevent discolouring.
Boil or microwave the zucchini until tender, then drain and
refresh in cold water.
For the dressing, stir the ingredients together in a small
bowl, then season to taste.
Photos by Steve Shanahan |
Pea and Ham Risotto
Quantity serves 4.
1 tbsp olive oil
1 celery stick, chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
75g sliced ham, coarsely chopped
1 ½ cups frozen peas
¾ cup dry white wine
3 cups chicken stock
60g butter
1 onion, chopped
2 cups Arborio rice
¼ cup grated Parmesan
shaved Parmesan for serving
Heat the oil in a frying pan, add the celery, parsley and
some freshly ground black pepper and cook, stirring, over medium heat for 2 to
3 minutes to soften the celery. Add the ham and stir well. Add the peas and
half the wine, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered,
until almost all the liquid has evaporated. Set aside.
Put the stock, remaining wine and 3 cups of water in a
separate pan and keep at simmering point.
Melt the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan. Add the
onion and stir until softened. Add the rice and stir well. Gradually stir in
the hot stock mixture, ½ cup at a time, making sure the liquid has been
absorbed before adding more. Stir constantly over low heat with a wooden spoon,
until all the stock has been absorbed and the rice is creamy and tender. This
will probably take about 25 minutes. Season to taste.
Add the pea mixture and grated Parmesan to the rice and
serve with Parmesan shavings and black pepper.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Lemon and Cumquat Curd
Photo by Steve Shanahan |
Lemon and Cumquat
Curd
4 eggs
¾ cup sugar
½ cup lemon juice
juice of 3 cumquats
2 tspns of finely grated lemon rind
125g chopped unsalted butter
Place the eggs and sugar into a heatproof bowl. Place bowl
over a pan of barely simmering water and whisk the egg and sugar mixture
constantly until the sugar has dissolved.
Add the lemon and cumquat juice, lemon rind and butter.
Whisk mixture for 20 minutes until smooth and the butter has melted and
thickened enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
Do not allow the mixture to boil as it will split.
Pour the mixture into hot sterilised jars and seal immediately. The curd will thicken when cooled.
Speculaas
Photo by Steve Shanahan |
1¾ cups plain flour
¼ tspn salt
¼ tspn baking powder
2½ tspn ground cinnamon
¼ tspn ground ginger
¼ tspn ground cloves
7 tbsp unsalted butter, left at room temperature
½ cup sugar
½ cup brown sugar, lightly packed
Mix the flour, salt, baking powder and spices together in a
bowl. In the bowl of an electric mixer beat the butter until creamy. Add the
sugars and beat until well blended, about 2 minutes. Turn the mixer to low
speed and add the dry ingredients in 3 lots, mixing until just combined and the
flour disappears into the soft dough. If the dough is too dry add a couple of
dashes of milk to the mixture, this will vary depending on the weather. You may
have some flour at the bottom of the bowl, just mix with your hands to knead
the dough and work in any dry spots. The
dough will be very soft.
Divide the dough in half. Working with one piece of dough at
a time, roll the dough between two sheets of baking paper or plastic wrap until
you have a circle that’s about 3mm thick. As you roll, turn the dough over a
couple of times and pull away the paper of plastic so you don’t end up with
creases in the rolled out rounds. Put the rolled out rounds of dough on a tray
and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. At this stage the dough can be left in
the refrigerator for 3 days or frozen if sealed with plastic wrap for up to 3 months.
When the dough is ready to bake, preheat the oven to 180C.
Line a baking sheet with baking paper. Remove the dough circles from the
refrigerator and peel off the paper or plastic wrap. Using a biscuit cutter,
whatever shape you like, to cut out as many biscuits as you can from the dough,
carefully lifting the cut-outs onto the baking sheet. Collect the scraps and
set them aside to combine with the scraps from the second piece of dough.
Bake the biscuits for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are
lightly golden and just brown around the edges. Allow the biscuits to rest on
the baking sheet for a few minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack.
Repeat with the second round of dough. Use the remaining scraps
from the dough circle, press them together, and roll them into a circle, chill
before cutting and baking as per the previous method.
Ginger and Pecan Biscotti
Photo by Steve Shanahan |
First published Canberra Times 14 December2011
Ginger and Pecan
Biscotti
1 cup pecans
2 eggs
1/2 cup brown sugar
2/3 cup self raising flour
¾ cup plain flour
100g glace ginger, finely chopped
Preheat the oven to 160C. Spread the pecans on a baking tray
and bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Tip onto a chopping board to cool, then roughly
chop. Cover the baking tray with baking paper.
Put the eggs and sugar in a bowl and beat with an electric
mixer until pale and creamy. Sift the flours into the mixing bowl and add the
nuts and ginger. Mix to a soft dough, then place all the mixture on the tray
and shape into a loaf. This should measure about 9 x 23 cm.
Bake the loaf for 40 minutes, or until lightly golden.
Transfer to a wire rack to cool for about 20 minutes, then carefully cut into
thin slices. This is best done with an electric knife, but can be also
successfully done with a large serrated bread knife by hand. The loaf will be
crumbly on the edges, so work slowly and hold the sides as you cut.
Arrange the slices on baking trays and bake again for about
10 minutes each side. They will dry further as they cool, and ensure they are
completely cool before storing in an airtight container.
Cherries in Vanilla Brandy
Photos by Steve Shanahan |
First published Canberra Times 14 December2011
It’s believed the tradition of exchanging gifts at Christmas
time began with the story of the Three Magi who offered the Christ child
frankincense, gold and myrrh. Since then, giving has worked its way into many
stories. Across Europe St Nicholas and his friends were known for their charity
and gift giving and the tradition of giving gifts started in their honour in
the thirteenth century when French nuns gave presents to the poor children. The
day for giving was December 6 and pronounced as feast day. This day is still
celebrated in Europe but the traditions of gift exchanging and feasting are
more likely to occur on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day.
It sounds like a good story to me. So to celebrate Christmas
and the tradition of feasting, I usually make gifts of food and start on this
couple of weeks before Christmas. This year, I included traditional Dutch
Speculaas in my collection of cooked gifts, which keep well or get better with
age. All you will need is an airtight container to store the Speculaas in to keep
them from going too soft in the summer humidity. Apart from them being delicious with coffee
or tea, these crispy and spicy biscuits can also be used as wafers to sandwich
ice cream together as an easy summer dessert. Some preparation is needed when making the dough, which needs to be chilled for 3
hours.
To end a meal or to accompany coffee, I also made Italian
Biscotti. These are always gratefully received as gifts, and again, keep for a
long time in an airtight container and work well with ice cream as wafers.
However, their perfect match is alongside a strong coffee. They take about half
an hour to bake and if sliced very thinly you will get about 30 pieces out of
the recipe.
If Christmas cheer is more your thing, the French Cherries
in Vanilla Brandy could be your special gift. You still have time to put down a
couple of bottles to cure before Christmas. We are fortunate living in
Canberra, with access to such quality fresh cherries. When I was making these
cherries in brandy, the smell floated right through the house and I was sorely tempted
to keep a bottle aside for myself. Because they need a few weeks to develop
their flavours, if you are giving them as a gift, hand write a little note to
go with them indicating when they will be at their best. The quantities in the
recipe fill about a 1 litre jar or divided the quantity between smaller jars.
Lastly, as a tribute to an Aussie Christmas, I made Lemon
and Cumquat curd. This is great to spread on bread or toast, but it is also
really lovely when added to whipped cream or mascarpone to have with desserts
or fruit. Recipes are on the following pages.
Cherries in Vanilla
Brandy
750g fresh cherries
1½ cups of sugar
½ cup water
½ cup brandy
1 vanilla bean per bottle
Prick the skins of the cherries with a fine skewer and heat
the sugar with the brandy and water in a pan, stirring until all of the sugar
has dissolved.
Add the cherries and a vanilla bean and heat until boiling.
Place the cherries and syrup in a heatproof, warm, sterilised jar, seal while
hot and turn upside down for 2 minutes. (you can sterilise the jars by either
boiling them in a large pan of water or pouring boiling water over the jars and
lids and allowing to dry turned upside down on a rack.).
Store the filled jars in a cool place for 6 weeks, turning
every couple of days for the first 2 weeks. Serve the cherries in the liqueur.
Refrigerate after opening.
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Boiled Citrus Cake
Boiled Citrus Cake Photo by Steve Shanahan |
First published Canberra times 9 December 2011
Po of Masterchef has done one like it, so has Maggi Beer. I
think Maeve O’Meara has created one as well. You might have guessed, it’s the
boiled orange cake. Or in my version, boiled orange and lemon cake. This is
slightly different to the original, adding lemon for sourness. This cake is
based on a classic Middle Eastern recipe where almond meal and citrus fruits
are abundant and form the basis for the ingredients.
This is an interesting recipe, as the structure of the fruit
changes by boiling it whole, reducing the bitterness produced from the skin and
pith. It’s a modest looking cake, even rustic, that packs a huge punch with its
strong citrus flavour that lasts in your mouth long after it’s gone.
The recipe became popular many years ago by the well known
cook and author Claudia Roden when it was published in her A new book of Middle Eastern Food back in the late 1960s. The
classic Italian Olive Oil cake is a similar version that uses this technique,
although I am not a fan of the strong olive flavour. This classic cake has
recently re-emerged and now makes regular appearances on café and bistro menus.
I think it is one of my favourite food finds for the year,
because of its unexpected flavour and the need for limited use of utensils, as
it’s completely prepared in a blender.
This is a cake that improves with age and retains its moist texture
without drying out.
You do need to prepare this cake in advance in order to cook
the citrus fruit for 2 hours. If you don’t allow this time, the skin on the
fruit will still be bitter. I like to cook the fruit the night before, having
the fruit cooled and when I’m ready to bake the cake the following day.
After making this cake regularly, I recently experimented
with the recipe and substituted a lemon instead of an extra orange. It gave the
cake a cheek pinching sourness that was balanced by the honeyed mascarpone.
This is worth a try if you like sour lemon flavours. Another variation to the
original recipe is to pour warm chocolate ganache over the cooked cake, giving it
a jaffa flavour.
The cake is great served warm or cold and is absolutely
perfect with mascarpone, honey and almonds. It really is a wonderful cake to
take to any occasion and its citrusy flavours makes it an ideal festive cake.
It will appeal to the gluten intolerant and those watching their carbs, just
watch out for the mascarpone that goes with it.
2 oranges, or 1 lemon and 1 orange
7 whole eggs
250g caster sugar
270g almond meal
1 tspn baking powder
1 tbsp of extra caster sugar
icing sugar for dusting
Wash the citrus fruit and cook unpeeled in a pot of boiling
water for 2 hours. Drain the water, allowing the fruit to completely cool. Do
this ahead of time.
Preheat the oven to 180C and grease and line the base of a
20cm spring-form cake pan with baking paper.
Break the eggs into a food processor or blender, add the
250g of caster sugar and blend together.
Over a bowl, break up the two cooled oranges, removing and discarding any
seeds. Place the oranges including the juice and skin into the egg mix in the
blender. Blend together to a smooth consistency. Add the almond meal and baking
powder and blend again till smooth.
Pour the cake batter into the greased pan and sprinkle the
top with the extra caster sugar. Bake for about 1 hour to 1¼ hours until the
cake is golden brown.
Remove the cake from the pan when cool. Dust with icing
sugar to serve with a dollop of mascarpone, a drizzle of warm honey and roasted, slivered almonds.
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